Saturday, March 22, 2008

Goodbye for this time, Narva

You can only take so many grey five-storey apartment buildings, and I realized there was a good Estonian expression to describe the prospect of giving Narva any more semi-charitable face time and spending my tourist dollar there -- trying to make gold bread from manure sitt.. Narva isn't a cesspool -- that is not what I was thinking -- but time's arrow is irreversible and the best that can be hoped for is to follow it full circle, and that something completely different will happen here, maybe in another 17 years.

There are some proactive options for reinventing Narva, too, most of them artificial, like moving a ministry here and a) subsidizing the move for public servants or b) launching a bullet commuter train from Tallinn. Or building an amusement park/resort complex.

As for building on existing features, the Kreenholm district, visited on the last day, has potential. If the factory ever goes out of business, and leaving aside the impact this would have on the local economy (people would probably absorb the blow stoically), I know a bunch of artists who would like to live there. With its brick architecture, the area looks a little like a college campus. This is the main building:



Indeed people are already taking steps in the direction of breathing new life into the tsarist-era buildings:



I wish they could stick one of those Reconstructed WIth EU Funds signs in front of this manor in Narva-Jõesuu, though:



I'll do the final instalment of the NE tour -- all you ever wanted to know about oil shale --a little bit later.

Roads are extraordinarily bad this year with the temperature fluctuating around zero. The bus ride back west was rough and long. The only domestic train to Tallinn is early in the morning. Just about every time the bus stopped, though, I was able to pick up WiFi. Even in Aseri.

The situation with truckers waiting in line at the border is a little better than it was in the summer. The last truck parked on the side of the road was at Vodava -- a line-up of only 10 km or so.

8 comments:

erueestlane said...

The expression you wanted to use is: "Sitast saia ei tee."

Ejoyable blog.

Kristopher said...

I corrected it. I'm not saying Narva is shit but this expression is more apt -- you can't turn back time in Narva.

ARK said...

Okay, Kris...

I haven't been here much lately, but mightily enjoy whistlestops.

It's been nearly 10 years since I was in Narva and the NE 'hood. I think I managed to repress most memories of that visit? I remember grey... and a few friendly Russky young folk. And to recall grey in a Baltic context says something...

Anyhow, more fine bits of travel-writing from Kaliningrad North. I mean to say: you actually put me there again, and certainly recommended a visit to R-Town.

Kudos. As Borat might say, very nice.

Kristopher said...

High praise...

Any movements at the blog? That picture of Ignatieff is starting to creep me out.

Kaliningrad North. I like that. Hey, did you ever go there?

ARK said...
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ARK said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
ARK said...

You asking about Kaliningrad or K-North? Well, both. The southern tale better be for a site with 18+ age check.

Good that you're creeped out by the pic. So am I. I'll budge when Iggy does.

It's an unspoken rule of thumb in Canuckistan that the most savvy politicians model themselves (aesthetically) after Anthony Perkins circa Psycho.

Meantime, returning to local themes, I noticed that certain leading Keskists run to the American televangelist look.

(Comment sections exist for tangents, right, K?)

Anonymous said...

Hello,

The bottom photo is a Narva-Joesuu's Kuursaal(Concert & Assembly Hall),built 1882,burned 1910,rebuilt 1912, by architect M. Lalewicz.
Address: Nurme tn. 2, Narva-Joesuu, Estonia

Kuursaal was a jewel of Narva-Joesuu before World War 2.
I want to see the restoration start as soon as possible.